RECIPE: Low-FODMAP Moorish Paella

A pot of low-FODMAP Moorish Paella

One (delicious) pot.*

One of the saddest goodbyes I had to make as I embarked on the low-FODMAP journey was to one of my dearest old friends, spaghetti with red sauce. Spaghetti and meatballs was my all-time favorite meal as a kids, and I never really outgrew it. Sure, I discovered the joys of Marcella Hazan’s simple, sweet marinara, and got myself tangled up  in various  elaborate bolognese and ragù recipes, but that core love of pasta, tomatoes and ground meat never really changed—for better or worse.

In fact, spaghetti was one of the reasons it took me so long to come around to the low-FODMAP diet. I knew I always felt sick the day after eating it, but I always thought it had something to do with the acidity of the tomatoes. I never suspected that it could be the onions and garlic flavouring the tomato sauce—and the very pasta I poured it over—that was the source of the problem.

But not only did I just love eating spaghetti bolognese because it tasted so delicious, but it was also such a convenient meal as well. I could cook up a big ragù on Sunday night and eat it through the week, or freeze it; I could even, on a lazy evening, just pick up a good bottle of meat sauce from a local gourmet grocer that would do the trick almost as well.

So, in starting out on this new diet, I was hungry for meals that could bring back some of that one-pot convenience, while hitting all the starchy, tomato-y, meaty flavor notes I was craving. A friend sent me a link to a recipe that Food52 community blogger NWB called Moorish Paella, and I knew I was in love. As is, the recipe contains some FODMAP warning signs, but I knew I could create a “recipe translation” that I could happily eat, digest and, importantly, not feel like I was compromising on by enjoying. And it’s the ultimate one-pot meal!

Make sure you use low-FODMAP chicken stock to cook the rice. And while the original recipe contains a healthy portion of onions and garlic; you can use the “fry” method to impart flavor to the cooking oil, add garlic-infused oil or just drop them completely. It’ll be delicious either way!

Low-FODMAP Moorish Paella

Parsley optional.

Low-FODMAP Moorish Paella

Ingredients

4-6 chicken thighs (I prefer to use bone-in, skin-on, but when I can’t find them I go boneless/skinless and it works out just fine)
2 links of merguez sausage (or other spicy sausage)
1 tsp ground caraway seed
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp paprika
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 tablespoon harissa (may contain a small amount of garlic; if you malabsorb, replace with a hot sauce that doesn’t cause problems)
2 cups Arborio (risotto) rice
3/4 can tomato paste OR 1 cup low-FODMAP tomato sauce
3 cups Delicious Low-FODMAP Chicken Stock
OPTIONAL: 1 small onion, quartered
OPTIONAL: 2 garlic cloves, halved OR 1 tbsp garlic-infused oil
1/2 cup red or white wine (I use a splash of port, myself—wine vinegar will do in a pinch)

Instructions

1. If you can, toss the chicken thighs in a plastic bag early in the day or the night before with a tbsp or so of kosher salt (don’t worry if you forget/skip this step).

2. Slice the sausage into disks (or diagonal chunks and stick them in the bottom of your saucepan (I use a 26L Creuset) while cold. Turn the heat on low and let them slowly render out their fat and brown in their juices. Brown both sides, then remove them with a slotted spoon to a drain on some paper towels resting on a plate. While they’re browning, combine and mix the spices together with a teaspoon of kosher salt.

3. Turn the heat up to medium. While the pan heats up, pat chicken dry on both sides (important step!). Then, in batches if need be, brown chicken on both sides in the rendered sausage fat, about 5 minutes a side. When they’ve got some colour on both sides, stick ’em on some more paper towels to dry.

4. If using onions and garlic, add to pan (splash in some olive oil if it’s dry—it probably won’t be) and let them fry away for a couple of minutes. Once they start to get golden brown on all sides, remove them with a slotted spoon and toss ’em out. (If not using onions and garlic, or using oil, skip this step.)

5. Deglaze the pan with the wine and scrape all the good fond-y bits off the bottom. Spoon a good portion of the spice mixture into the pan. Before it completely dries out, add the harissa or hot sauce and re-introduce the sausage, then give it a good stir. Add the tomato paste or sauce and another big spoonful of the spice. Let it all simmer down for about 5 minutes, but if it seems to be drying out too fast, proceed to the next step immediately.

6. Add the rice and mix it in with the sauce and sausage bits, then distribute it evenly across the bottom of the ban. Stick the chicken parts on top (again, evenly). Pour in the stock. Stir in the rest of the spice mixture. Cover.

7. Bring the pot to a boil (this should happen quickly) and then immediately reduce to lowest heat. Let cook away, lid still on—remember the BBQ rule, if you’re lookin’, you ain’t cookin’!—for about 20 minutes, then check on it. If the rice seems tender and most of the liquid is gone, you’re golden. If not, cover again and wait a few more minutes. (It can theoretically take up to 30, but mine is usually done on the earlier side.)

8. Serve with a squeeze of lemon, and enjoy!

And as always, drop me a line in the comments below if you have any questions, or if you made the recipe and have something—good or bad—to say about it!

* Check out the super-cool “Nonna Spoon” from bottledBrooklyn, a wedding present (and not a paid endorsement—I really love it!)

 

RECIPE: Delicious Low-FODMAP Chicken Stock

One cup of delicious low-FODMAP chicken stock

One cup of liquid gold.

I went through a couple of ideas when I was deciding which recipe to post to this blog first. The delicious “Moorish paella,” made with risotto rice, harissa and merguez sausage, that’s become a staple around these parts?. Or the Martha Stewart-inspired flourless chocolate cake that is, I swear, lighter, creamier and just plain better than the regular gluten-filled cakes we used to enjoy. Or maybe an adaptation of the Ottolenghi chicken-and-wild-rice salad that makes the best, most lunchable leftovers?

I had settled on the paella, when I opened my freezer to pull out some frozen chicken stock in which to simmer the rice. As it happened, I was fresh out. And then it occurred to me—maybe I should hold off on a more complicated dish and focus on something simple, a “building block” of low-FODMAP eating, if you will.

Because the truth is, there are a LOT of recipes that call for some kind of stock, particularly when you’re cooking with a lot of rices and grains, as we low-FODMAP eaters often are. And while it’s often tempting to just buy a can or tetra pack from the grocery store, they can often be a digestive mine field, as some combination of onions and garlic are almost always used to flavor commercial stocks. Plus, homemade stock just tastes so much better! You can use it in soups, stews, sauces, gravies—keep it in one- or two-cup portions in the freezer and pull ’em out as needed.

It’s actually super easy to make stock. Preparation time is under 10 minutes, and as long as you’re around to let it simmer away for a few hours, you can let your stove do most of the work for you. Typically, stocks are made by lightly simmering chicken carcasses (bones and however much meat you have on hand, or to taste)  along with a bunch of aromatics—tasty vegetables that enhance and bring out the flavor of the bones.

The problem for us low-FODMAP eaters is that two of the most commonly and heavily-used aromatics in stocks are onions and garlic. (This is why eating at restaurants can be so difficult—beware of sauces and soups!) So to make our low-FODMAP stock, and to make it delicious, we’re going to have to do two things: replace the missing aromatics, and cook it longer so as to bring out more flavor to compensate for what’s missing. We’ll add green onion tops to replace some of the missing taste and aromas from the onions, and throw in some extra carrots to fill it out even further. And while many recipes will tell you to simmer your stock for at least an hour or two, I’ll advise going even longer—or even better, using a pressure cooker if you have one (in which case you’ll only need to cook it for 45 minutes or so).

Low-FODMAP Chicken Stock Ingredients

I made mine in a pressure cooker, but a regular pot is more than fine too.

delicious low-fodmap chicken stock

Ingredients

Bear in mind that stock-making is an inexact science, and not to take the measures here too seriously. If you’ve got extra carrots or chicken, throw ’em in. Don’t worry about the exact amount of water either. It’ll all taste good in the end if you simmer it long enough.

3-4lbs of chicken carcass (this can be the body of a roast chicken you’ve already cooked and eaten, plus whatever bones and scraps of meat you’ve saved, or you can always buy inexpensive chicken backs at most grocery stores.)
3-5 carrots, chopped on the bias (diagonally); don’t worry about peeling them, just give ’em a good scrub
3-5 stalks of celery, chopped on the bias
One bunch of green onions, chopped on the bias (JUST the green parts)
3 or so bay leaves
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp salt (don’t overdo it on the salt, as the stock will reduce and you can always add more later)

Instructions

1. Throw everything in a big pot.

2. Add enough cold tap water to cover everything in there by a couple of inches. Cover and gently bring to a boil.

3. Just when it’s started to boil, adjust the heat way back down again to just about minimum. Do not  over-boil your stock. Let it just gently simmer away; the water should be just moving below the surface. Then back away.

4. Check for taste every hour or so. Remember that it won’t quite taste “right” until you add a little salt, so if you’re not sure, scoop out half a cup or so, sprinkle with salt, stir and then taste.

5. When it’s ready to taste (or has reduced as far as you’re willing to go), pour stock through a strainer (or a cheesecloth, or even a coffee filter) into a large bowl. Make sure you push on the solids with a wooden spoon to get every last delicious drop. Strain it again if you like, until it’s as clear as you want it (the old story about French consommés was that they were so clear you could read the date on a penny at the bottom of a bowl, but you probably don’t want to go that far).

6. Let cool. If you want a really non-fatty stock, let it sit in the fridge overnight and skim off the solid white fact that will have accumulated on top.

Store for up to three days in the fridge, or even better, save some in the freezer. I like to ladle two-cup portions into freezer bags and then label them with the serving size and date. When I need some for a recipe, I just pull out however as many bags as I need and let them thaw.

It doesn’t get that much easier than making your own chicken stock, and once you taste it, it’s hard to go back to store-bought. And if you’re on a low-FODMAP diet, that’s probably not even an option anyway—but this is one case where you won’t be missing out on flavor. Isn’t it nice when it works out that way?

What’s your favorite use for chicken stock? Let me know in the comments below!